- Get a camera with image stabilization feature. This is especially important if you use zoom because any camera shake is amplified by the magnitude of the zoom accordingly. But even without zoom, it is still very useful. Most Panasonic cameras have this feature.
- Use the flash, even in daylight. I’m not a big flash user, because sometimes I think the images turn out harsh and unnatural looking (plus flash can be distracting depending on the situation, and then you might have the issue of red-eyes to deal with). But in some cases you’re really better off using it, like in extremely low light, or bright outdoors where your subjects are backlit casting shadows on their faces. Some cameras, like my Panasonic FZ20, allows you to adjust the intensity of the flash, so you can get enough light to make a clear picture, but not too much to make it harsh.
- If your camera has shutter priority mode, you can adjust the shutter speed higher (i.e. faster). This will work well if you have ample light but might result in an under-exposed picture indoors or at night.
- To allow more light in at high shutter speeds, usually the sensitivity (ISO setting) is increased (some cameras allow you to adjust this too). However, this might increase the noise of the shots. Certain cameras have built-in noise reduction, and some even let you adjust how much (like my FZ20, again… lest I keep repeating myself, I’m just going to say right here that the Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ20 has pretty much all the features I’m gonna mention here.)
- Try the "burst" or "continuous" mode on your camera, if available. It will take a few shots in a row (the frame rate and number of shots depend on your camera’s capability). Having more pictures increases your chance of getting a good, clear one that you like. You can always delete the rest.
- I realize that many cameras don’t have that much manual controls. But nowadays, many point-and-shoots will have something called the "best shot modes" or "scene modes". E.g. portrait, scenery, fireworks… and they automatically adjust the shutter speed, aperture, ISO, and even flash settings for you according to the mode you choose. Casio Exilim has some of the best (and easiest to use) modes I’ve seen, so I like to recommend their cameras even though their image quality is not always the best. But it’s such a fun camera, you’ll end up enjoying taking pictures and taking more shots, and I think that’s more important than taking perfect photos every time (remember, I’m not a pro, and I’m thinking that most people reading this aren’t either). But where was I… oh yeah, choose the "Sports" mode if your subject is moving around a lot. Or there might be a "Panning" mode, which works best when your subject is moving fast along one specific direction.
- Sometimes, blur is caused not so much by camera shake or subject movement, but by lack of focus. Usually it is harder to focus in low light. The "AF illuminator", or "Focus assist lamp" will come in handy here (again, if your camera has it). The camera sends a beam of light (usually red, sometimes infrared) to help pick up the focus. It is not as intrusive as the flash, but can still be distracting. Once I used it at a concert that didn’t allow flash photography. But when people on stage started to look uneasily in my direction, I quickly turned the AF assist light off. I guess some might be thinking it was a laser beam from a gun pointing at them… haha… ok, my bad, shouldn’t laugh at that.
- Another way is to pre-focus before taking the picture. This is achieved by pressing the shutter release button halfway, to "lock" the focus on your subject. I have tried this successfully with, for example, a flower swaying every which way in the wind. By first locking the focus, the "wild" flower can generally be "tamed". There are other uses for the halfway shutter release, like exposure lock. But that’s info for future topic(s?)
A few other things you can consider / keep in mind:
- Drink less caffeine, so your hands will shake less when holding the camera!
- If possible, ask your subject to stop moving.
- RTFM, I mean, read the fine manual :) Honestly, I haven’t even begun to use my cameras to their full potential. But it really helps to read through the manual, to at least know what your camera is capable of. You might be surprised… nowadays they pack a ton of features into miniscule cameras. A lot of times I read reviews of people complaining that a certain camera takes lousy pictures. But I have the same/similar camera and don’t see some of the problems they mention. Therefore, I say, go RTFM!
- If all else fails, gather all your blurry pictures together, and put them in your "artistic shots" collection. Tell everyone, they are blurred for art’s sake. Heck, some professionals adjust all kinds of settings on their cameras in order to take that perfectly blurred shot, while you did it effortlessly!
In conclusion, I think Panasonic needs to start paying me commission. Gloria and I have had Panasonic cameras for a while now, and last year I recommended the FX9 (along with a few other cameras) to one of my managers and he bought it, Megan just bought the FZ20, Niu’s going to buy the FX01, which my sister and I are also considering (or rather, drooling over), and which I just suggested to another co-worker who is looking for a camera under $300. Plus Jessie’s thinking of upgrading her camera… guess what I would recommend to her?? Just to clarify, I do NOT work for Panasonic!! And I have included Casios and Canons in my recommendations (because I’ve also owned these cameras before), but people somehow end up choosing the Panasonic :)